The word peel or peeling derives from the English verb
« to peel ».
Chemical peels carried out in dermatologists' offices are based on a natural process similar to the kind of exfoliation you would give your skin at home. The upper layers of the epidermis are eliminated so as to allow skin to renew itself, thereby boosting radiance and reducing wrinkles and pigment spots. At the same time, an increase in collagen and elastin fiber-synthesis is also observed, bringing about an improvement in skin's tone and firmness.
Peels involve applying a chemical preparation to the skin. Depending what substance is used and how it acts on skin, peels can be divided into 3 types:
- Superficial
- Medium-depth
- Deep
Your dermatologist will examine your skin's condition so as determine which technique is best suited to you.
Peels are chosen according to the patient's age and the nature of the skin problems to be corrected. The more damaged the skin, the deeper the necessary treatment.
Superficial (soft) peels :
These peels are based on fruit acids (Glycolic Acid or AHA), LHA (LipoHydroxyAcid), trichloroacetic acid (TCA) at 10-35% or salicylic acid (BHA). They work by exfoliating the corneal layer. They have an instant effect on skin's radiance and brightness and are risk-free peels that can be used at any time of the day without any unwanted effects. Superficial peels are indicated for lentigos, acneic and sebhorrheic keratoses, epidermal melasma, acne vulgaris, dull and creased skin, complexion irregularities, acne lesions, fine lines and pigmentation problems. This type of peel can provide an improvement in skin texture by eliminating the corneal layer, improving melasma and sun spots, and by reducing comedones. The complexion is left smoothed and clarified. The procedure involves little discomfort and causes minimal inflammation. After an hour, skin's original color returns, but with a more luminous complexion. For best results you should plan around 6 sessions, at least 15 days apart.
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Medium-depth peels :
Based on 50% TCA or 70% glycolic acid or a combination of exfoliating agents such as Jessner solution. They are indicated for acneic and sebhorrheic keratoses, wrinkles, melasma, sun spots, skin with severe pigmentation problems and sagging skin.
These peels allow skin's content of elastin and collagen fibers to be increased. Their effects last longer than those of superficial peels. They require 2 to 3 weeks' pre-peel preparation by using products based on Vitamin C and fruit acids... These cause a deeper exfoliation of the skin, leaving it looking somewhat like sun-burned skin. Medium peels are more powerful than soft peels, allowing for both fine lines and wrinkles to be reduced or eliminated entirely. It is necessary to wear effective sun protection for 3 months following the procedure. These peels are particularly well-suited to skin with pigment spots or old acne scarring. They procure a tightening effect on sagging skin. This type of peel entails around a week's down-time.
Deep Peels :
These formulations are principally based on Phenol or Baker-Gordon Formula. They are deeper peels and allow for significant improvement of deep wrinkles, acne scars and slack skin. This type of peel is indicated for very wrinkled skin, or skin that has a lot of sun- or smoking-related damage. They procure an even and predictable result, despite the risks and complications associated with them. They are used to treat the most severe indications (wrinkles or deep acne scars) and involve quite a serious surgical procedure carried out under general anaesthetic. Due to the toxicity of phenol, this type of peel entails certain risks and should be decided upon with the help of your dermatologist.